Salon International AW15: Show stoppers

From structured corsets and silk nightwear to 80s-inspired lingerie and men’s boxers, here are our picks from the Paris design fair.

At the January edition of Salon International de la Lingerie, held at the Porte de Versailles in Paris earlier this week, 480 designers from 37 countries gathered to showcase their latest intimate apparel collections to buyers and the press.

Among the exhibitors were some design heavyweights presenting their AW15 ranges, as well as smaller, newer brands hoping to make an impression on retailers looking to stock their rails. Here, we list the collections that caught our attention and outline the key trends for the new season.

Maya Hansen – couture corsets
Major lingerie houses and small independents have pulled inspiration from the 1980s, an era when women expressed a care-free attitude and an image of success through daring garments complete with oversized volumes, bold prints and fluorescent colours. Such brands include I.D. Sarrieri, which this season pays homage to Jean Paul Gaultier with a bustier that emphasises the hips. The same inspiration could be seen at Raine & Bea and Murmur stands in SIL’s Limited Edition area, which play with sheer panelling, bullet bra cups and boned dresses. But it was Spanish brand Maya Hansen that stood out from the corsetieres exhibiting at the show. For AW15, the brand has created a perfect mix of lingerie and prêt-a-porter with a selection of corsets in black, soft pink and off-white. Chantilly lace is hand-trimmed and applied over the hips and bust of the corsets for a couture/boudoir look.

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Marjolaine and Meng – silk nightwear
Nightwear continues to move upmarket and take its place as an increasingly fashionable product in the new season and SIL exhibitors illustrated this trend through luxury pieces made of silk and lace. In fact, silk is the only material used in collections designed by Meng Zhang, a young London-based designer. For AW15, she continues to take inspiration from the Far East, with sumptuous kimonos featuring hand-crafted, oriental prints. Meanwhile, French brand Marjolaine was the talk of the exhibition after being crowned the Designer of the Year at the show’s opening press conference, and deservedly so. The family business, which goes back three generations, continues to manufacture finest quality lingerie and nightwear made from silk and adorned with French Leavers lace. For AW15, the brand has cleverly applied lace onto floral prints for the Tango collection, and on dotted patterns for the Tresor line. The brand has also developed a new line of nightwear in knitted cashmere silk to provide comfort and style.

Kriss Soonik – underwear as outerwear
In contrast to the trend for excessive glamour in the form of corsets, several brands have created minimalist lingerie designs that will be worn as outerwear in AW15. One such brand is Kriss Soonik, which returned to SIL this season after four years away from the show. The label has developed a range of jersey tops with attached suspender straps and subtle lace inserts alongside soft, triangle bras and lace, long-sleeved tops and matching briefs. Other exhibiting brands following this trend include Hanro, Madame Aime, Aikyou, Morgan Lane and Cheek Frills.

Mey – men’s bodywear
High-quality fabrics and comfortable cuts are what this season’s men’s bodywear is all about. Cottons, prima cottons and microfibers are most often used alongside understated, elegant colours like navy blue, grey, black and white. German brand Mey optimises this trend with casual, uncomplicated styles with lasting value. The label has designed a line of underwear that feels silky-smooth on the skin and is easy on the eye, with minimal yet fun prints, including a pink elephant on a navy-blue background. Another stand-out piece at SIL was a white low-V T-shirt designed to be worn under shirts. The garment is made with breathable fabric, designed to absorb moisture.

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