Dessous London attracts a string of major lingerie buyers

All photography by Russell Turner – russellturner.co.uk.

Intimate apparel exhibition Dessous London has recorded a 60% rise in footfall on last season, with leading lingerie buyers in attendance.

The AW18 edition of the show, which took place in London on January 11-12, attracted buyers from department stores, online retailers and independent stores including Selfridges, House of Fraser, ASOS, Figleaves, Neiman Marcus, Amazon, Lipsy, UK Lingerie, Tallulah Lingerie and Beautifully Undressed.

By appointment, guests were invited to browse AW18 collections from lingerie, loungewear and swimwear brands, place orders and talk business.

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All photography by Russell Turner - russellturner.co.uk.

Highlights of the show included Coco de Mer, which used Dessous as its first wholesale trade fair to launch its new luxury lingerie range designed in collaboration with the V&A museum.

Merging nature with richly dramatic embellishment, the collection celebrates the opulence of ornaments from Georgian glass to traditional Korean lacquerware in silk satins and tulles.

Elsewhere, Dutch brand Marlies Dekkers made an exciting comeback, presenting its first collection in several seasons to UK buyers.

Marlies Dekkers' Daniella Garguilo presents the brand's AW18 range to a customer.

Marlies Dekkers’ Daniella Garguilo (right) presents the brand’s AW18 range to a customer.

This season, designer and founder Marlies Dekkers explored the life and legacy of the ‘Queen of Pearls’ Elizabeth I.

The collection features a palette of jewel tones and burnt orange, inspired by the crown jewels and the Queen’s famous red hair, alongside black pearls, lace and velvet taken from her regal garments.

Key lines include a tapered bodice designed to boost both the cleavage and the wearer’s confidence.

Canadian nursing Bravado Designs also exhibited at the show with a newly expanded collection of bras for mums and mums-to-be.

Colourful collections attract buyers to the Dora Larsen stand.

Colourful collections attract buyers to the Dora Larsen stand.

New brands in attendance included Hidden Beneath, which designs and develops minimal underwear with a sporty aesthetic on the island of Jersey, and Dora Larsen, which was founded in June 2016 by former Topshop lingerie buyer, Georgia Larsen.

Maintaining its signature Dora Larsen look, styles are kept minimal with a focus on colour and fabrication. However, the brand has experimented with new design details this season, such as three-pleat darts on mesh cups, strappy backs and cut-outs.

There were also a number of sustainable brands present, including AmaElla, which makes underwear using organic cotton under strict social practices, and Studio Pia, which aims to bring couture-inspired creativity and decadence to ethical lingerie.

Studio Pia’s second collection, ‘Daedal’, draws inspiration from the decadence and intricacies of the Art Nouveau period, particularly focusing on Gustav Klimt’s Gold phase.

Buyers visit the Studio Pia stand.

Buyers visit the Studio Pia stand.

Designs build on the most successful elements of the brand’s collection, ‘Jungle’, transforming the bespoke French embroidery with a Midas touch and creating new-yet-familiar styles in classic black and bridal options.

US label Oh La La Cheri also made an appearance, showcasing French-inspired luxury lingerie.

And the brand sponsored a bloggers lunch hosted by lingerie blogger and Instagram influencer Becky Mount.

Fifteen digital influencers gathered on the first day of the show to meet with brands and view collections.

Guests were treated to a burlesque performance by Miss Fallon Dee on the first evening of the show.

Guests were treated to a burlesque performance by Miss Fallon Dee on the first evening of the show.

On the evening of January 11th, headline sponsor Coco de Mer hosted a cocktail soiree catered by Morton’s Private Members Club.

Guests were treated to a burlesque performance by Miss Fallon Dee, who wowed the crowd with a provocative fan dance.

For a more in-depth round-up of the show, read the February issue of Lingerie Insight, out next month.

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