When an industry stalwart who has been involved in some of the last decade’s most successful brands, including stints at Dirty Pretty Things and as creative director of Myla, decides to launch her own lingerie label, it’s time to sit up and take notice.
Franceska Luther’s new label, Kitten Kouture, takes all those luxury elements and the fashion edge for which she is known in the industry and applies them to D plus cups, offering those with a fuller bust a chance to enjoy the hipper side of fashion lingerie that has for so long eluded that customer.
The look is sexy and retro, packed with attitude and contrast. "I obviously love vintage but my thing is that I love the mix of looking back at the early 60s through to the late 70s, and I love the 40s too," says Luther.
"I love the graphics and the colours and that sort of thing. So what I wanted to encompass is something that really harks back to a lingerie heyday, but not too far back – so it’s got a retro feel, but I want it to be really up to date. I have vintage meeting more modern technology and creating product that has the vintage aesthetic but is incredibly comfortable and well made."
Probably the most striking aspect of the range is its genuine fashion appeal, and that’s entirely deliberate, says Luther. "I suppose my approach to lingerie is if I was a fashion house what lingerie would I be doing? The idea was to create more dynamic fashion products in the plus D-cup fashion arena, because while other brands are doing a fantastic job, I wanted to do something a bit more edgy for the larger-cup market."
The line is currently made in Britain, though the style for AW13 has a certain French glamour about it, with what Luther describes as "a lot of Bardot-esque shapes: push-up, underwired balcony, and a sexy full cup underwired bra shape. I’m teaming them with high-waisted knickers, retro hipsters, some thongs, and suspenders because they’re hotly on trend. And there’ll be some 60s-inspired loungewear pieces featuring marabou and so on."
Fabrics include contrast black and vintage nude silk satin, very sheer, soft tulle mesh and Leavers lace from France, with colours ranging from ivory to tangerine, chartreuse, magenta and scarlet – as well as flashes of leopardskin silk.